The pressure that built in my Eustachian tubes is nature’s way of confirming the information relayed by my dive computer as I drifted down, ever deeper beneath the surface upon which, moments ago, I was abustle with equipment assembly, donning and final checks. That sequence of activity followed by absolute serenity perfectly mirrored our arrival at Komandoo in the beautiful Maldives, a few days earlier. International travel is a succession of stress prompting procedures: travelling to the airport, check-in, security, the pandemonium of most modern airports, boarding, flight, arrival, transfer and finally on this occasion a noisy (but fun) seaplane. In much the same way as the sea swallows such concerns when scuba diving, arrival to a welcome reception of local music, cold drinks and soul-soaring views rendered the effort of getting there wholly forgivable and forgettable. From every location, the island appears simply magical; replete with stunning vegetation, corridors of pristine white sand, wildlife on land and offshore and the most accommodating, charming legion of staff for whom nothing is too much trouble. It is other worldly in its effect; nestling you in its palm and just finessing away ties to that other, more prosaic life lived. We bagged a sea villa on stilts with panoramic views, air-conditioning, steps into the turquoise sea, a refilling fridge and boxing-ring sized bed with posts to match. It was hot and humid all and every day and so our bungalow provided sanctuary and respite. It’s extraordinary how quickly one slips into the rhythms of the day; for me, two dives, then lunch, followed by relaxing and refreshing before pre-dinner drinks and then supper: effortless and consistent hedonism serviced with a smile. We were on all-inclusive plan; something I had previously viewed pejoratively but was delighted to have any misgivings beaten into submission by endless choice and quality. The array of drinks and cocktails included is extensive and sufficient to satisfy all but the inveterate experimentalist. The food is outstanding - spring bulb fresh, varied beyond belief and plentiful. How they manage to supply it all so beautifully, everyday, is beyond speculation. The staff take the time to get to know you, and pre-empt your every need with uncanny precision. Soup, salads, multiple fresh breads, curries, freshly grilled meats, fish, dhals, noodles, rice, every imaginable vegetable cooked imaginatively, puddings galore… For the scuba divers the richness of experience is seamlessly extended into the blue. Prodivers was expertly run and staffed by multi-lingual instructors who could cater for all experiences levels. The choice of dive sites unending and the undersea life mind-blowing. They were flexible, incredibly helpful and in-keeping with all things Komandoo, had their guests’ experience at the heart of everything they did. There is entertainment in the evenings, sometimes live and at other times televised, a glorious pool to lounge beside, sunset trips on the boat, a sunset beach bar for landlubbers and countless snorkelling options. There is a spa which I believe provides all the usual spa things. To cap it all, I was lucky enough to ‘re-marry’ my wife when we renewed our original vows. It felt straight out of the White Lotus playbook without the inconvenience of being murdered. Fresh petals were thrown at our feet, we were drummed and sung into location and the service was performed with all the usual Komandoo panache and joy. All in all, it is the most incredible place, staffed by wonderful people offering an unadulterated dose of paradise.