Sometimes when I think about this little gem of a hotel I have to rub my eyes and assure myself that it wasn’t all a dream. I spent nine blissful, perfect days there and, given the option, would cheerfully have stayed for ever. This is diving country, but the hotel does not cater to divers. It has no boat, no water sports facilities, no aqualungs being noisily pumped up into the wee small hours. It just exists on the edge of a black, stony beach, facing due east. There is a hotel block, the ‘mansion’, but most of the accommodation consists of secluded villas. My enormous room had everything I could desire and a few extras too. It was vast. I would leave the curtains ajar and be woken by the sunrise before going for a swim in the pool and ordering breakfast in my room – breakfast and afternoon tea are included in the price and you can choose to eat either in your room or by the pool. Now here’s the thing – for most of the 9 days, I was the only guest. I felt as though I was living in Downton-by-the-Sea, with a small staff of cheerful and efficient young people to cater to my every whim, even down to providing a courtesy car to run me anywhere local I might want to go. Note: this hotel is very isolated, and the only road out is up a steep hill. The nearest convenience store is a twenty-minute drive away. Not for the infirm or faint hearted, who should also avoid the ‘mansion’ block as it has no lift. There is no restaurant as such but a great room service menu. On my first night I skimmed it and reckoned that in nine days I would probably eat my way through it. Fat chance! The food was varied, plentiful and delicious, all brought to my room and cleared away afterwards. I feel bad about naming individuals, because everyone at this haven was efficient and kind and lovely, but Harius, who doubled up as driver, and Komang, went out of their way to make my stay a once in a lifetime experience. If I ever have the good fortune to go back, I’d avoid the villas, although that’s just a personal preference. They are surrounded by high walls, which in the case of the villa I was offered meant no sea view and no sunrise. The accommodation also seemed a little cramped compared to my barn of a room in the ‘mansion’. The villa pools, while sparkling, are small. I will never forget this wonderful experience … but it’s not for everyone, and if scuba diving is your thing you would do better elsewhere.