Yes, the sea really is so blue it seems to glow… Yes, soft white sand beaches go on for miles, and yes, wild bottlenose dolphins swim up and say hello. It might sound too good to be true but trust us when we say you’re not dreaming. Welcome to Turks and Caicos.
These islands have over 200 miles of coastline – all public and free to access. Some beaches trump others when it comes to things like the dining and drinking scene, visibility for snorkelling and ease of reaching, but the general rule is classically Caribbean: green trees, silky white sand and clear, calm, sea that sometimes glows a luminous blue when the light bounces off the sand beneath.
Grand Turk’s beaches buzz when cruises come in, especially the aptly named Cruise Centre Beach right by the terminal and popular Governor’s Beach a mile out. The Columbus Landfall National Park protects these and other beaches on the west coast, including over twenty incredible dive sites.
But a certain beach on north Providenciales hogs the spotlight: Grace Bay is one of the world’s most famous and beautiful beaches, for its amazingly turquoise sea and clean, soft, white sand. Leeward Beach and Blight Beach (with its spectacular offshore reef) share the same stretch of coastline, all protected as part of the Princess Alexandra National Park. This area’s where you’ll find the hub of Turks and Caicos tourism, with big, beachfront hotels and holiday homes, shops, bars and an 18-hole golf course. The beaches of the south coast are worth venturing out to explore, with Sapodilla Bay, Taylor Bay and Cooper Jack Beach being charmingly quiet with nearby caves and cliffs to explore.
It’s all about the north coast on North Caicos, where Pumpkin Bluff Beach and Hollywood Beach have clear, calm conditions and barely a soul in sight. Middle Caicos’ beaches have a gloriously rugged feel, with Mudjin Harbour and Bambarra beach being the favourites.
The Turks and Caicos Islands lie on the world’s third largest coral reef system, which absolutely overflows with ocean life: black coral trees and elephant ear sponges reaching out, barracuda and grouper prowling, snapper and grunts schooling, eels ribboning and eagle rays and hawksbill turtles gliding… The list goes on. Oh, and if you want to dive with wild sharks, bottlenose dolphins or humpback whales, this is one of the best places in the Caribbean to do so.
A lot of the sites are close to the shore, letting you really make the most of your dive time. They include some of the sheerest walls we’ve ever seen, dropping hundreds and thousands of feet into deep, dark blue. Most are protected waters, belonging to the Princess Alexandra National Park near Providenciales and the Columbus National Marine Park off Grand Turk. There’s awesome opportunity further out around West Caicos and South Caicos – the former has six miles of walls that plunge down nearly 2km, while South Caicos is loved for its canyons, arches and reefs that you can swim straight through. Visibility is around 100-200ft, with water temperatures between 23-29°C throughout the year. You’ll find dive companies on the main islands, including Big Blue Unlimited and Dive Provo on Providenciales and Blue Water Divers, Bohio Dive, Get on Board and the Grand Turk Diving Co. on Grand Turk.
Though the history of the area features shipwreck after shipwreck, there’s hardly any wreck diving to be had here. If you’re keen, ask the local dive companies if they’ll put together a custom tour of sites like the sunken Convair CV-440 plane off South Caicos, the Cessna 401 and Lucky Lady fishing boat off Salt Cay and the anchor and remains of HMS Endymion that sunk near Salt Cay in 1790.
Snorkelers will have a whale of a time on Bight Reef, which can be accessed from the beach of the same name on the north coast of Providenciales. Smith’s Reef, slightly to the west, is another excellent spot.
There isn’t a lot of surfing to be had around here – you’ll see the odd local on Provo shoot to Northwest Point or the spot off Leeward Beach when the wind’s up, but conditions aren’t consistent (unless you count the Flow Rider machine on Grand Turk, that is).
If you prefer paddle boarding anyway, you’re in luck. From the bluer than blue bays of Provo (paddle Grace Bay and you might be joined by dolphins) to the mangroves of North and Middle Caicos (check out Bottle Creek and Lorimers Creek, home to lemon sharks, turtles, pelicans and flamingos), there’s oodles to explore. A number of companies – including TC Kiteboarding and Water Play Provo – provide the hire and guides to help you on your way.
The surf scene mightn’t hold a candle to Barbados, but that definitely doesn’t count for the kitesurfing and windsurfing in T & C. Trade winds - mainly sideshore and onshore - are very consistent between November and July (and pretty amazing for the rest of the year too), and there are some spectacular spots to catch them from.
Provo is the hub of kite action here, host of the Windvibes tournament which has been running for over a decade and home to Long Bay’s shallow, lagoon-calm waters with their side-on south-easterlies. Blue Surf Shop provide gear hire, and you can book lessons with Big Blue Unlimited, TC Kiteboarding, Kitesurf TCI and KiteProvo. Most companies offer tours, taking you downwind to Five Cays beach or on a boat trip to Half Moon Bay or further afield.
The other cays and islands have some awesome launch points, including North Caicos’ mangroves, hidden bays and lagoons (check out Cedar Point, which has shallow water and offshore south-easterlies). Middle Caicos’ Bambarra Beach has super conditions for newbies, while Mudjin Harbour and Conch Bar Beach are more suited to experts.
For windsurf lessons, check out Waterplay Provo (linked with Kitesurf TCI) who run group and private classes on the north coast. Some hotels have their own equipment and instructors too. Long Bay’s conditions for learning and freestyling are nigh on perfect, while Grace Bay gives the opportunity for some wave riding off the reef.
Whether you’re island hopping, seeking out snorkelling spots or touring the coastline, sailing’s a superb way to explore Turks and Caicos.
Events honour the sport throughout the year, from the family-friendly Fools Regatta on Provos (laser and hobie races – in June) to the South Caicos Regatta (sailboat races, pageants and concerts – in May) and the charming Valentine’s Cup Sailing Race on Middle Caicos’ Bambarra Beach each February, where beautifully crafted model boats are raced.
Providenciales has the biggest sailing scene, home to the Turks and Caicos Sailing Association (based in Grace Bay) who run lessons, supervised sailing and regular races. This area’s also where you’ll find Waterplay Provo, with their Hobie Cat sailing lessons, and Sail Beluga and Sun Charters who provide crewed morning, afternoon, evening and all day charters.
Don’t forget these isles are only thirty miles from the fishing heaven that is the Bahamas, which means the angling scene is nothing short of amazing. The seabed drops dramatically about two miles offshore, and the surrounding waters teem with the likes of marlin, tuna, sailfish, swordfish, mahi mahi and whopping great wahoo. May to September is the best time of year for catches, though there’s plenty available year round. There’s no shortage of companies offering deep sea charters, especially if you’re based on Provo where you’ll find Sea Spice Fishing Charters, Hook Em Fishing Adventures and Grand Slam Fishing Charters. The reef or bottom fishing is fantastic all over the islands, where grouper, snapper, yellowtail and barracuda make regular appearances. And there’s oodles of opportunity for bone fishing too, around the Caicos Banks and the flats of Middle Caicos, North Caicos, South Caicos and the cays. Thanks to the shallow nature of the water, you can wade or fish from a guided or self-guided boat. Diving for conch and lobster is also doable if you come here in season (usually November – July for conch and August – March for lobster).
Brilliantly blue bays, fascinating limestone cliffs and mangrove-lined channels surround these islands, each as incredible as the next to explore by kayak. A lot of the beachfront hotels have kayaks for guests to use, and you can also arrange kayaking through companies like Big Blue Unlimited. If you’re based in Providenciales, the southern parts of the Frenchman’s Creek and Pigeon Pond Nature Reserve are wonderful wetlands where you can spot bonefish and conch. We can’t get enough of the Chalk Sound Lagoon, which has some of the brightest blue water we’ve paddled through – look out for jagged cliffs and caves, and rays that glide beneath your boat. On Grand Turk, Oasis Divers run tours in glass-bottomed kayaks that take you past mangroves and coves to Madison Point. Then there’s South Caicos, where you can follow the route around the Harbour and Long Beach, or set off from the top peninsular and kayak around wetlands and cays. The Ramsur Nature Reserve protects the wetlands to the south of North and Middle Caicos, and stretches over to East Caicos: on the west end in the Bottle Creek lagoon, red mangroves line a web of channels - the habitat of green turtles, lemon sharks, herons and cuckoos = paddle paradise.
There’s only one 18-hole course around here, and it’s the Provo Golf Club in Grace Bay (6729 yards, par 72). Designed by Karl Litten, it’s a corker with lakes coming into play on a dozen holes and egrets, herons, flamingos and over a thousand palms forming a tropical landscape. Hole 14 is the course’s signature hole and also its trickiest par four, playing right into the wind, over water and alongside a lake. The club has Taylor Made rentals, a practice green and practice chipping areas, and hosts events including the Provo Ryder Cup, Captain’s Cup and Club Championships.
The other Turks and Caicos golf course is the Waterloo Golf Club on Grand Turk, a 9-hole course (2758 yards, par 54) in the grounds of the Governor’s Office. Governor John Kelly designed and built the course himself in 1996 with the help of local volunteers, and the green is maintained by members. Last time we checked, the green fee covered a whole day, so you can play as much as you like.
You’ll have a tough time finding any mountains on these islands… The highest point is 48m, so mountain bikers looking for steep singletrack are much better off in St Lucia or the Dominican Republic. Flat, cruisey, scenic roads on the other hand, are plentiful and perfect for touring on two wheels. Our favourites can be found along the north coast of Provo, in the western end of North Caicos, around South Caicos’ salt ponds and through Cockburn Town in Grand Turk. A lot of the hotels offer bicycle hire (usually a mix of cruisers, hybrids, tandems…) and you can also book bike tours through companies like Caicos Cyclery and Big Blue Unlimited.
It’s all about the coastal paths here, and they’re spectacular – leading to hidden coves, caves, sinkholes and other natural wonders. Providenciales has some cracking areas to walk around, like the Northwest Point Marine National Park where you can see fossils, saltwater ponds and bundles of birds including ospreys, pelicans, herons and warblers. The Bird Rock Trail on the east end of the island is an official hiking trail, leading through bushland, wetland and then to a limestone bluff looking over Bird Rock. On Grand Turk, we love the hike to the old lighthouse and its nearby coastal path, while on Middle Caicos, the Crossing Place Trail is one of the nation’s finest, featuring craggy limestone cliffs, tiddly coves and caves. There are also some gorgeous coastal routes around Highlands Bay and Valley Bay on South Caicos, and Salt Cay’s hike from Balfour Town to the Taylor Hill ruins takes you past the Little Bluff Lookout, Northeast Point and Long Bay. For guided walks, look out for local companies like Big Blue Unlimited (based on Provos).