When Chris Columbus famously discovered the Dominican Republic, it was here he first set foot on land – and you can still see the remains of the first European settlements. Centuries on, this ‘Silver Port’ is most loved for its hundred kilometres of beaches and coastal towns, where watersports enthusiasts will find no shortage of things to do. Best of all, the area’s remained less touristy and more authentically Dominican than other parts - long may it last.
Puerto Plata’s Gregorio Luperón International Airport has direct flights to destinations including Miami, New York City and Toronto. The next nearest airport is Cibao International, an hour and a half’s drive away.
As well as serving awesome fish and chips, Big Lee’s on the Malecon has a super drinks menu – watch the world go by, gaze out to the ocean or chat to the locals or the big man himself. You haven’t sampled Dom Rep nightlife until you’ve danced to bachata and meringue - Rancho Típico in Puerto Plata is a top spot for live music and over in Playa Dorada, the Coco Bongo nightclub’s always a big hit with locals and tourists alike.
For something a little more Vegasy, stay on after a day at Ocean World for the cabaret and casino. Sousa’s seen as the lad’s hotspot of the north coast, with gogo dancers and bar crawls galore. Breaking the mould, Kelly and Patty always give a warm welcome at the Jolly Roger, where there’s a mix of local and imported beers, big screens, live music and karaoke night.
Trendy Cabarete’s beachfront is buzzing with bars and restaurants come evening, Onno’s usually has happy hour from 6-9pm, while Ojo’s is worth a visit for its cocktail pitchers and salsa on Thursdays. For live music and a chilled atmosphere, head over to VooDoo where there’s a terrific selection of beers.
In Puerto Plata, Big Lee’s Beach Bar on the Malecon is a must-visit (you can’t miss it – look for the flags on casetta 8). Order the fish and chips which are famously good, and nab a table looking out to the ocean. For a taste of PP’s old school Victorian elegance, go for tea or crepes at Kaffe (kids’ll go wild for the milkshakes) or buy gelato at Heladeria Mariposa.
If you’re celebrating something special, Mares Restaurant serves spectacular food in the spectacular setting of a colonial house and garden. Over in Sousa, Checkpoint is a favourite for breakfasts and burgers while the Jolly Roger does smashing sub sandwiches as well as themed nights like Mexican Mondays and Curry on Fridays. Morua Mai gets rave reviews for its live jazz and varied menu of pizza, pasta, seafood, fajitas, burgers – the kind of place you could return to all week (and lots of people do).
Cabarete has a lively hub of restaurants – like Yalla for people-pleasing tapas and Gordito’s for speedy and simple (but wonderfully fresh and moreish) Mexican food.
VacaBar is a trendy spot to sip smoothies and watch the kite-surfers zip up and down the ocean. For some North American nosh, the Lazy Dog does hotdogs, burgers and milkshakes like nowhere else on the coast. If you’re here as a group, make a reservation at the Castle’s Club for something completely different, where Doug and Marguerite welcome you into their delightful home for gourmet food and incredible views from the deck.
The Playa Dorada Mall is connected to the resort complex, with shops selling jewellery (including a good amber shop), clothes, souvenirs and Dominican produce. There’s a similar gaggle of shops in the city centre. On the beach, the Orange Market sells artwork, clothes and handmade knickknacks. Cabarete and Sosua have lines of colourful beach and surf shops for souvenirs
You could fill each and every day with activities around Puerto Plata, on the beach, through the jungle and in the city. The Cabarete area is the Dominican Republic’s capital of all things surf related, while the jungle and caves of the El Choco national park and the dozens of Rio Damajagua waterfalls provide plenty to explore on foot, bike or horseback.
Twenty minutes out of Puerto Plata, Sosua’s a hot spot of fabulous diving sites. Sousa beach is a U-shaped bay of clear, calm waters to snorkel in. In the middle of the bay, the Canyon is a site worth swimming with corals, sponges, an ancient anchor and sunken fishing boat. The Three Rocks is one of the most popular dive sites on this coast, where three coral mountains are teeming with sea life and an artificial reef protects endangered species. Boat rides can take you to the Airport Wall with its spectacular corals, and the Zingara wreck.
Trips to the Cayo Arena islet (AKA Paradise Island) let you explore the colourful reef that surrounds the sandbar, snorkelling in the shallows or heading further out from the idyllic sandbank.
If you’re certified for cave diving, the freshwater caverns and grottos in the Choco caves and DuDu Lagoon are well worth a visit.
It’s all about Playa Encuentro in this neck of the woods, a beach near Cabarete that’s known as one of the Caribbean’s greatest and most consistent spots for surfing. With a number of different beach breaks, beginners can practice on gentler waves while intermediates enjoy the multiple peaks of ‘Bobo’s’ and experts head to ‘Coco Pipe’ and ‘Destroyers’ on either end (best in the winter months) for the rough stuff. Several surf shacks and schools provide hire, lessons and photography.
The Kitesurf World Cup and World Kiteboarding League have taken place here on previous years – for an idea of just how good the conditions are. Cabarete Bay is kiters’ capital, with the aptly named ‘Kite Beach’ a colourful hive of activity – from locals and tourists to the pro riders that train here. Hire shops and IKO certified kiting schools are dotted along the beach and around the town. Don’t miss the Kite Club Café for awesome views, a chilled, surfy atmosphere and the best all day breakfasts.
Cabarete’s reliable trade winds, off-shore reef and warm (around 28°C) waters have made it a favourite with windsurfers for decades. The side-onshore wind comes in from the right, breezier in the morning and stronger in the afternoon. There are a number of local windsurf centres providing lessons and rentals – the sea state is pretty flat, with the shape of the bay making it safe for beginners. Experts have a flat bay for freestyling, with bigger waves in winter for waveriders.
Beginners, seasoned sailors and Olympians alike come to sail Cabarete Bay, which has light easterly winds and flat waters in the morning, with winds building in the afternoon. Lessons and clinics are available for learners and improvers, while those with more experience can rent top notch Hobie Cats, Lasers and Coachboats. The Caribbean Laser Midwinter Regatta has been held here for over a decade now – if you’re here when it’s on it January it adds a fabulous atmosphere to the town.
Big game fishing is huge in Puerto Plata, Sosua and Cabarete, with specialised charters offering half and full day tours in fully equipped yachts. From Sosua beach, you can start fishing within 500 metres as it gets deep quickly. Troll for sailfish, snapper, barracuda, blue marlin, wahoo, tuna and mahi-mahi – some companies will cook the day’s catch for you once you’re back on terra firma.
River kayaking’s big to the east of Cabarete, where the likes of Rio Yasica and Jamao wind through the jungle, passing wildlife and waterfalls (there’s a nice family-friendly route down the Yasica to La Boca). The Costa Dorada and Sousa beaches are good for ocean kayaking – the big all-inclusive resorts tend to have kayaks available for guests.
There are two main golf courses in the Puerto Plata area: Robert Trent Jones Senior is the original architect behind Playa Grande (his son, Rees Jones has since renovated it). 10 of the 18 holes sit on the seafront and fairways trim the cliff, on what’s known as the “the Pebble Beach of the Caribbean”. On the beach of the same name, 18-hole Playa Dorada is another Trent-Jones Senior course – the landscape features a small rain forest, palm trees, and stonkingly good views of the ocean at the seventh hole.
For a gentle ride, cycle along the Malecon where you can stop off at beaches, harbours and cafes along the way.
But where this neck of the woods really comes into its own is Cabarete. There are some fantastic mountain biking trails surrounding the town, following rivers and delving through the mango and avocado forests of the El Choco National Park – the Rocky MF is a demanding trail spills down rocky singletrack.
Tour companies run trips to the Cibao Valley and overnight stays near Pico Duarte, the highest mountain in the Caribbean.
Long beach is our favourite for beach walks, and you can also amble down the Malecon past restaurants and harbours.
While the road and cable car are the most popular routes up Mount Isabel, there’s also a spectacular footpath from the cable car base… Navigate your own route, or hire a local guide to lead the way – it takes around 2 hours to climb and the reward at the top is phenomenal views and gorgeous gardens (first thing in the morning’s the best time to set off, as it can get cloudy in the afternoon). Getting back down, you can hike or take the cable car.
The El Choco national park has some incredible routes to discover on foot – not least the caves and natural pools. Natural wonders don’t end here, the Damajagua Cascades are well worth the guide and legwork, with different tours visiting different combinations of the 27 waterfalls.