The king of the Out Islands and ‘birthplace of the Bahamas’, Eleuthera’s a long, narrow island of pineapple plantations, small seaside villages and dizzyingly pretty beaches. The bright blue waters of the Caribbean Sea lap gently against the western shores, while the Atlantic whips up waves for the surfing community on the east. A ten-minute boat ride away, Harbour Island’s home to pink sand beaches and chic colonial houses - where the glamourous, artsy souls of the world retire for a life by the sea.
There are three airports on Eleuthera Island: North Eleuthera (ELH), Governor’s Harbour Airport (GHB) and Rock Sound Airport (RSD). All have daily flights from Nassau, which in turn has direct flights from the UK. ELH and GHB also have regular flights from Fort Lauderdale. As an alternative to flying - more time, but also more scenery – the Bahamas Ferry Services run round trips between Nassau and Harbour Island (daily), Spanish wells (daily) and Governor’s Harbour (weekly). Mailboats also serve the main towns at least once a week. Taxis wait outside each of the airports, or you can arrange a private transfer to meet you from arrivals.
Generally, evenings on Eleuthera are quiet. The exception is Friday nights in Gregory town, when the sounds of reggae and Rake n Scrape fill the air at Sunset Lounge (formerly Elvina’s) - the seafood and sunsets here are out of this world. For happy hours, head to Budda’s Shack in Spanish Wells. On Harbour Island, popular spots are Sip Sip, The Rock House for cocktails and Daddy D’s nightclub in Dunmore Town.
Of course, it would be rude to leave Eleuthera without having a pineapple… or five. You can even join in a pineapple eating contest if you’re here during the annual festival held to honour the fruit (usually around June in Gregory Town). Restaurant wise, there are plenty of options in Governor’s Harbour, from the 1648 for fine dining on the seafront to da Perk for coffee, sandwiches and cakes. If you’re based in Spanish Wells, don’t miss the fish tacos at The Shipyard. In Gregory Town, Lizard Café is a popular lunch stop serving the likes of Jerk wraps and pumpkin soup, while Sunset Lounge (which used to be Elvina’s) does amazingly spiced seafood.
Eleuthera Island isn’t a place for serious New-York-Style shopping, but there are some fabulous little stores here and there. The Island Farm on Queen’s Highway is the place to stock up on local produce – the cinnamon rolls are well worth lining up for. You’ll find some fabulous little boutiques and arty shops on Harbour Island, look out for Stephanie’s incredible handmade mobiles in Shine and buy fine kaftans at India Hick’s shop Sugar Mill. Don’t miss the straw market when you come in on the dock, a terrific place to pick up souvenirs and knick-knacks.
There’s a lot to do on long, thin Eleuthera Island, not to mention a bucket load more over on Harbour. You’ve some of the best surf and most beautiful beaches in the whole of the Bahamas to start with, with oodles to discover on foot or bike to boot.
Beginner, expert, one tank or two, we could go on about Eleuthera’s underwater scuba attractions for decades. The Devil’s Backbone is a jagged stretch of reef off the north end of the island. It’s where the Eleutheran Adventurers were shipwrecked all those years ago - and others since – which now makes it an incredible site for wreckies (the reef off James Point is amazing too). The Current Cut channel is a must, where strong swimmers can experience a drift dive over sea fans and alongside rays and reef fish. Get up close and personal with sharks at the Shark Site where there’s an incredible vertical wall. Snorkelers can practice the basics around Gaulding Cay and there’s some fabulous marine life to explore around North Palmetto Point and lighthouse beach.
If you want good surf in the Bahamas, you’ve come to the right place. Eleuthera’s Atlantic coast sees some excellent swell, with the appropriately named Surfer’s Beach having the most consistent conditions in the Bahamas. To the south, James Point Beach is much loved for its point break left handers. Other good spots include Man Island and the south end of Harbour Island. Ride in the winter months for the biggest waves and best consistency. Companies like Surfer’s Haven offer lessons and board rental’s available from Surfer Pete in Gregory town (he knows the area like the back of his hand and happens to make a cracking chilli sauce…). Stand Up Paddleboards are hireable from the bigger beachfront hotels – you can paddle along the coastline for miles.
Eleuthera and Harbour Island boast endless expanses of untouched coastline with excellent conditions for windsurfing. Due to the remoteness of this part of the Bahamas many of the best spots are only accessible by boat, which is challenging to access for the average holidaymaker. Because of this, you will only encounter enthusiasts and professionals in these parts. Popular spots include Surfers Beach near Gregory Town, Governors Harbor and Spanish Welles. Last time we checked windsurfing and kitesurfing equipment isn’t available for rent here so we wouldn’t recommend Eleuthera and Harbour Island for windsurfers and kitesurfers without their own gear. Other watersports like surfing, snorkelling and sailing are in abundance here.
Some sailors avoid stopping off at Eleuthera because of its reefs, shallows and rougher waters. But if you do your research and check weather forecasts, it’s well worth navigating your way to one of the marinas here. Choose between the Cape Eleuthera and Davis Harbour marinas on the south of the island, French Leave Harbour Village on central Eleuthera and the Spanish Wells marina on the north. There’s also the Harbour Island Club and Marina and Rumora Marina on Harbour Island. Bareboat charters are more readily available in the Abacos, but you’d rather have a local at the helm, private sailboat charter is another way to explore the area. For learners, Eleuthera sailing school in Governor’s Harbour provided lessons and rentals last time we checked.
The Bridge and Bamboo Point off South Eleuthera are a deep-sea fisherman’s dream – frequented by the likes of mahi mahi, wahoo and tuna. Arrange a boat charter with a local fishing guide, who’ll take you to the best spots and provide all the necessary equipment. For bonefishing, flats are easy to find on your own or with a guide. There are some especially good areas around the Current Settlement and Current Island, Spanish Wells (crawfishing central) and Harbour Island. The French Leave and Ten Bay beaches two other favourites – stunning beaches and brilliant bonefish spots rolled into one.
Local tour companies run kayaking trips between Wemyss Bight beach and Deep Creek, passing rocky and sandy bays where you can stop for a picnic or snorkel. You can hire kayaks from Lil Shan’s and Valentines Dive Centre on Harbour Island – hourly, for half a day, a full day or even longer. Pootle along the edge of the Pink Sand beach for a quick jaunt, or head around the tips of the island to find secret beach spots.
Last we heard; the Cotton Bay Golf Club was waiting for an investor to bring it back to its glory days. If you’re keen to play golf and still want the Out Island experience, it’s worth looking into a stay in the Abacos. There are two 18-hole golf courses on Great Abaco Island – firstly the Dick Wilson designed Treasure Cay and secondly the Abaco Club which is a links course. The Exumas are worth considering too, home to the Sandals Emerald Bay course which has six spectacular holes on a peninsular that juts out into the sea.
You can hire bikes from Governor’s Harbour and Dunmore Town, Harbour Island - by the hour, day or week. Eleuthera’s wonderfully hilly between Savannah Sand and Gregory Town, then a little flatter at the northern and southern ends. If you’re here in February, you might catch cycle-fever at the annual Ride for Hope charity race from Governor’s Harbour. Or in June, Gregory Town hosts the ‘40-mile pineapple cycling classic’ as part of the annual Pineapple Festival… Bikes are a nice alternative to golf carts when it comes to getting around Harbour Island – less noise, easier access and more feel-good exercise as you pass colonial houses and legendary coastline.
We love exploring Eleuthera on foot, and you could return here year after year and still find new routes to enjoy. Lighthouse Beach is brilliant for beach walks, with miles of sand and a lighthouse to climb up to. If you’re at the Glass Window, walk south for a mile or so to the Cow & Bull rock formations to work out why the rocks got their name… There are some fabulous trails in the Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve, a favourite being Ethan’s Tower Loop which includes a fabulous viewpoint. Not forgetting Harbour Island, which is a fantastic place to walk around. From Government Dock, go through the straw market and up Bay Street, past the colonial houses and over to Fisherman’s dock, then continue round to pink sand beach (or cut through Dunmore Town for a leisurely beach walk).