The Abacos are part of the Bahamian Out Islands, where life is lulled to a peaceful pace. No lofty developments stab the skyline here, and the beaches couldn’t be more classically Caribbean if they tried. Locals fish and fix boats up like their ancestors did before them, while travellers hop between the cays – soon finding each beach really is as dreamy as the next.
There are two airports serving The Abacos: Marsh Harbour International (MHH) and Treasure Cay International (TCB). MHH has direct flights from Fort Lauderdale (around an hour) and Nassau (35 minutes), which you can fly to direct from the UK in 9-10 hours. TCB has direct flights from Fort Lauderdale (taking just over an hour). Ferry services also run from Nassau and McLeans Town on Grand Bahama.
These islands might seem sleepy by day but find the right spots in the evenings and you’re in for a night of cocktails, music and Bahamian cheer. In Marsh Harbour, Snappa’s on the waterfront has live music at weekends – get here for happy hour and stay on to watch the sunset. Rum Runners is another popular party spot, with extended happy hours and a cracking BBQ. We rate Tipsy Seagull on Treasure Cay for cocktails, beer and wine – try their ice cream mix frozen cocktails (the Mudslide being a firm favourite). It’s not all confined to the mainland - on Elbow’s Cay, Harbour’s Edge makes all the classic tropical tipples – Bahama Mamas, Pina Coladas, you name it. Sunday nights at Nippers on Great Guana Cay are wild and wonderful, with their unlimited pig roast and potent Nipper Juice drawing in crowds and dancing on the tables. Grabber’s is Great Guana’s other hot spot, with themed nights and their famous Guana Grabber drink.
On the mainland, Touch of Class are known to go the extra mile, offering free conch fritters and dropping guests home in Treasure Cay after their suppers – though even without these it’s worth a visit as the seafood is amazing. Wally’s in Marsh Harbour is a brilliant spot for lunch, with daily specials served with homemade salsa and guacamole. We like to watch the boats go by over a sit-down supper at Curly Tails - the simple kid’s menu always goes down a storm with sprogs, or for a romantic meal, the sunsets are spectacular. If you’re on Elbow’s Cay, Harbour’s Edge does the best fish fingers we’ve ever tasted, as well as sandwiches and wraps for lunchtime or pizzas and pasta for dinner. Save room for their pudding menu, where the Key Lime and Coconut pies will knock your socks off. On da Beach looks out over the sea from the dunes, serving jerk chicken sandwiches and cocktails. For a party atmosphere, head to Nippers on Great Guana Cay for the Sunday hog roast where you can eat as much as you like, washed down by icy Nipper Juice.
Marsh Harbour’s your place for shops and boutiques – head to Bay Street for the main gaggle of duty free, art and souvenir shops. Some of the best gifts to bring home are wooden model boats, which represent the area’s strong boat-making culture – you won’t find more authentic ones than you get on Man O War Cay, where the most talented craftsmen have lived and worked for generations. Hope Town on Elboy Cay has an interesting collection of shops to wander around, selling clothes, home decor and gifts (Iggy Biggy has a cracking selection of all of the above).
As you’d expect from such a varied set of islands and cays, the Abacos are brimming with activities – on land, on water and under the sea… This is where you’ll find some of the Bahamas’ best surfing and golfing, not to mention what could well be the greatest boating and sailing on the planet.
There are more dive sites than you can shake a flipper at, each as stunning as the next. The Fowl Cay National Reserve (to the north of Man-O-War Cay) is worth the short boat trip for glorious caves and reefs, with depths of up to 12 metres. Another protected area is the Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park, where the reef off Sandy Cay is nothing short of spectacular – fish by the millions around vast caves and corals. For wreck diving, San Jacinto steamship near Whale Cay off the west coast of Great Abaco sank over a hundred and fifty years ago during the civil war. Two steam locomotives lie within reach of divers and snorkelers near Man-O-War Cay. We love the Catacombs and Cathedral cave, which look absolutely amazing when sun rays stream through, silhouetting turtles and tropical fish against the deep blue. Dive companies based in Marsh Harbour, Green Turtle Cay and some of the larger resorts, providing lessons and excursions for all levels.
Besides Eleuthera, the Abacos have some of the best surf spots in the Bahamas - with white-sand beaches and post-surf conch burgers like these, you’re in for a treat. December to March are the best months for Atlantic swells, often measuring around 1-3 metres. And with water temperatures of 22-27°C, wetsuits can stay at home. Decent reef breaks include Indicas and Garbanzos on the east coast of Elbow Cay (the latter’s generally more consistent) and Williwaw on Great Guana. Paddlers can explore mangrove creeks or pootle around off the shores of Elbow Cay, Treasure Beach. Local companies like Abaco Paddleboard provide SUP and surf lessons and board hire.
The conditions around Treasure Cay, Great Guana Cay, Elbow Cay and Green Turtle Cay lend themselves to windsurfers, but finding somewhere to hire equipment or provide certified instruction is more of a struggle… The same goes for kitesurfing, but it looks like the kiting fever is hotting up in this neck of the woods, so watch this space. If you can bring your own gear, experienced kiters will want to head to Elbow Cay, where consistent winds blow all winter long - we like Garbanzo beach and Tahiti. Green Turtle Cay has good conditions on Gilliam Bay, and Treasure Cay Beach has a sandbar among other launch sites. Thanks to the brilliant clarity of the water, any hazards are easily spottable, and the calm conditions are ideal for freestyling.
Bays, coves and harbours trim the Abaco islands, creating a playground for generations of sailors. Learn to skipper from ASA certified sailing schools in Marsh Harbour, or charter a bareboat and spend a day or two exploring the cays at your own pace. Last time we checked, hobies could also be hired by the hour from Treasure Cay. If you’d rather have someone else at the helm, crewed boats come in all shapes, sizes and levels of luxury. Those whose stay coincides with the Regatta Time in Abaco event are in for a treat – it’s been running for over forty years (usually around July), bringing in boat crews from all over the planet to race around Green Turtle Cay, Guana Cay and others.
Fly fishing is a favourite pastime here, with some of the best bonefish catches we’ve ever seen. Whether with a guide or DIY, head to the marls on the western coast of Great Abaco, or to the area around Cherokee Sound and Little Harbour on the east. There are also promising flats around the cays - Green Turtle and Manjack Cay being two of the most popular and easy-to-reach.
For deep sea fishers, some of the biggest Bahamian blue marlin on record have been caught around the Abacos, with Treasure Cay hosting various billfish tournaments every year. April, May and June tend to be the best months for a blue marlin catch here – with grouper, snapper and wahoo often making an appearance around Great Guana Cay. The bigger islands have a handful of companies providing charters, if not most are happy to pick you up on the way.
The Sea of Abaco is one of our favourites for kayaking – so shallow and clear that you can see starfish, shells, turtles and tropical fish through it. Local companies like AbacoEco provide tours of the surrounding area, with popular excursions taking you to the mangrove creeks and marls around Great Abaco island. Bring your snorkel and paddle around the reefs off Elbow Cay, or kayak over to the Hope Town lighthouse. On the bigger beaches, you’ll often find a fleet of ocean kayaks to hire by the hour for a potter along the coast (Great Guana Cay is great for this).
The Treasure Cay Golf Club has a Dick Wilson designed course, with 18-holes flanked by thick greenery. Rental clubs are available if you don’t want to lug yours onto the plane, and other facilities include a driving range and restaurant. On the east coast of Great Abaco, the Abaco Club’s private course has a Scottish-inspired links design, set in tropical climes right up against the ocean. Combining the talents of Donald Steel, Tom Mackenzie and Peter de Savar, the design of the 18-hole course blends with the surroundings – saving the best ‘til last with the 18th hole up on the cliff side.
It’s all about cruisy bike rides in the Abacos – no adrenaline-pumping MTB terrain here. If you’re happy to pedal at a slower pace, stopping at beaches, ice cream stands and viewpoints along the way, these islands and cays are a treat to explore on two wheels. Bikes are our favourite way to visit Elbow Cay – rent some wheels from Sun Dried T’s or The Bike Shop to ride along Queens Highway and between colourful colonial houses, or down to Tahiti beach for a cool-down swim. There are also hire shops in Marsh Harbour and Treasure Cay - you’ll find some good routes around the peninsula or up the coast to the Buckingham and Banyan beaches.
You can combine long walks with birdwatching, beachcombing and all manner of other activities in the Abacos. There are some terrific nature trails through the pines of the Abaco National Park – look out for the endangered Bahamian Parrot, and for a serious hike, set your sights on the Hole-in-the-wall lighthouse. Elbow Cay’s a brilliant island to explore à pied with a wander around the harbour, up the lighthouse or down to Tahiti beach.