The seaplane trip from Male to the island was a terrific experience. Lovely to fly over atolls and impossibly turquoise sea in a 10-seater twin prop plane, sitting right behind the pilot and copilot. After half an hour we dropped off a couple at the Conrad jetty. All very swish with a uniformed meeter-greeter, a porter to take their bags, and a parasol for the short walk to their hotel. It was so quiet walking up the jetty to Angsana reception where we were met by the lovely Safia. She dealt with all the paperwork while we cooled off with damp facecloths, hibiscus tea and little snacks. On our way to the beach villa Safia pointed out the restaurants, pool bar, the spa, the area for the daily feeding of lovebirds. We still hadn’t seen anyone else there! The villa was beautifully cool, a bottle of fizz on ice for us, fresh fruit, a well-stocked minibar and tea/coffee tray. The huge bed was beautifully decorated with a welcome message in flowers and leaves. We looked out onto our own secluded private pool and, just beyond, we could see the sea and the whitest sand I’ve ever seen. (It’s coraline; only 5% of the world’s beaches are coraline). There was a walk-in shower through the sliding doors. And in our walled garden, a huge bath and another shower. It was perfect. The highlights for us were the very customer-centric, smiley staff. They are a credit to the resort. Apart from Safia who checked that we were happy throughout our stay, special thanks must go to Ajija in the restaurant who looked after us on our first night and made a point of greeting us every day. Her smile lit the place up. Sunil in the bar is a terrific ‘Master of the Cigar’; Steve took to him straight away. He and the rest of the team in the bar made sure that we had comfortable seats in the shade/in the breeze, and were very attentive, remembering our preferred drinks, always ready with a smile. We opted for the all-inclusive package and I’m glad we did as the food is excellent — so much choice at every meal and different themes every night. The beach BBQ was particularly good — fresh tuna, reef fish, prawns, squid, beef and chicken all prepared for us efficiently and with good humour. Many of the guests with children seemed to like to dine early. If we went to the restaurant from about 20.15, it had quietened down and we hardly ever had to queue to have any dishes prepared for us. The dessert chef was a firm favourite; he made a real effort to make sure that we tried the featured pudding of the day. And, on our last night there, he decorated our plate with a message in chocolate: “Thank you and come back soon!” I celebrated my birthday while I was there. We hadn’t mentioned it. Imagine my delight as we walked in after our morning snorkel to find the bed decorated with birthday wishes in flowers. That evening we were guided to a table for two, again decorated with flowers and candles. Our two waiters sang ‘Happy Birthday’ and it seemed that all the staff in the restaurant and the bar remembered it was a special day. A very enjoyable feature is the morning snorkelling off the boat which goes to different parts of the reef each day. So many vibrant shoals of fish, turtles, reef sharks and octopus. We took our own fins, masks and snorkels but the Dive Centre has all the equipment anyone might need. We had our own sun loungers and parasol on the beach. I don’t know where other guests went when they weren’t in the restaurant or bar but most of the time we had the beach to ourselves. The sea was very warm, the water very clear and, looking back towards the villas, we saw fruitbats swooping through the trees. The temperature was around 30 degrees and it was humid so our pool was the place to cool down after the beach. It rained a couple of times in the evening which made it more comfortable for sitting out afterwards. The showers came and went quickly. This is not the place if you’re looking for lots of lively late-night entertainment or, for that matter, aerobic/yoga/Pilates classes in the day. There was a Maldivian band with dancers one night for about an hour. There was a karaoke evening by the pool (which is lit up and sparkly at night– very pretty) and there was a DJ another night. Someone said there was dancing, but we didn’t see it. We met a Chinese chap on our last day who was astonished that we’d stayed for 11 nights. He said he’d only been there 4 days and he was bored rigid. I imagine if you don’t care for snorkelling or diving and you’re not keen to kayak or waterski, there’s nothing much to do other than eat and drink and relax. The majority of guests were Chinese/Korean. Only a few Brits there. We were told that Brits tend to visit at Easter and Christmas. There were a few Europeans celebrating wedding anniversaries, big birthdays and honeymooning there. It was a perfect choice for us. Real ‘barefoot luxury’ and as if we were in a Bounty Bar TV add. Very relaxing, lots of life on the reef to look at every day, luxury villa, own pool and terrific staff.